A recent visit to The Mill in Tampa exposed a new and worthy dining experience in south Tampa. The Mill is housed in the space previously occupied by Ceviche and after a lengthy renovation the space is large and open, full of texture and décor drawn from nature. They have kept the large, covered dining patio but they’ve put their own stamp on it with the installation of a large, functioning water wheel where the fountain used to be.
Open for dinner and weekend brunch, The Mill offers a menu of imaginative delights that you won’t find at many other Tampa restaurants. There is a distinctive southern flair (sweet pickle brined fried chicken and apple cider sorghum braised pork belly) as well as European-inspired fare (grilled avocado panzanella, bourbon ajo dulce triggerfish and a succulent charcuterie offering). The Vegetable Charcuterie has an impressive list of delights including pastrami cauliflower and roasted turnip gratin dauphinoise to name a few.
There are many dishes that I have put on my “must try” list including the fork tender Rib-eye (grilled or Pittsburgh finished with blue cheese butter), the Dueling Duck, Diver Scallops and the cider-braised Mussels. They also offer less-obvious cuts such as ostrich and bison. Oh, yes. Please.
The Meatloaf Wellington was more of a miss than a hit due to the soggy crust and bland cheese sauce. Seemed to be a case of trying too hard. However, the Heirloom Watercress salad was fabulously satisfying and the careful preparation was spot on.
A strong craft cocktail list and half a dozen intriguing desserts round out a menu that clearly reveals a creative team with a sound instinct for unusual pairings and inventive reimaginings.
Service was attentive and our “to-go” bag was gifted with a couple of perfect oatmeal raison cookies. Aaahhh…sweet!
Find The Mill at 2500 W. Azeele St, Tampa, 33609
813.603.8786
themillst@themillrestaurants.com
Elizabeth Fendrick