{Noah’s Eat} Review: Cena – Tampa

Cena – Authentically Unique! 

One thing that chefs struggle with is how do they stay true to their culinary heritage while still innovating? How far do they push the envelope, yet not lose the essence of a dish? This can be even more problematic with Italian food as many of the dishes and recipes are sacred! Well, Chef Michael Buttacavoli has found the sweet spot in this conundrum, and I don’t mean with just the delicious gelato! I visited Cena with my wife upon the recommendation of a friend, and the experience was extraordinary. From our host Joe (from Comack), to our server Marissa, all the way to speaking with Michael, who is not only a great chef, but a great guy!

Pasta - Cena tampaCena has a great vibe, a bit old school, but also a bit industrial. Our meals were amazing, the menu is rotational, and always features in season ingredients; starting with the Antipasti and Insalata.  I had the Octopus salad, which was spiced up with some Calabrian hot sauce and fried cauliflower.  Now I’m a bit of an authority on octopus, having eaten my way across the Iberian Peninsula, where they hand out awards to the tapas bar that serves the best pulpo. The Cena version of this was fantastic, with some innovative surprises in flavor and texture.  My wife had the baby kale Cesar; the chickpea croutons were an awesome touch! And Michael is not afraid to use anchovies to keep it authentic.  We had the gnocchi for a pasta course, which was equally inventive as the octopus.  The tomato sauce included braised oxtail, again a combination you’ll not find almost anywhere! The gnocchi had a finishing touch of being lightly braised in the skillet, which gave it an even deeper flavor and texture. Absolutely delicious. My secondi was the Parmesan crusted halibut, which was seared to perfection with a fabulous faro and risotto.  Again, another twist on a theme, but next level in flavor! This superb meal was finished off with gelato and of course, some house made limoncello!

In addition to my Iberian escapade, my wife and I recently made a trip to Sicily, where needless to say food is a way of life. I would put the meal at Cena on this level of the best cuisine we sampled. Plus not only is the food exceptional, it is an exceptional value!  They are transitioning to a new menu as I type this so get to Cena and have the best of the old AND new world!